Scored cheap tickets to Hawaii so jumped on a plane to paradise! Got myself a board at HIC in the Ala Mona Shopping Center (on sale for $424) and surfed rockpile the first two days and got tore up in the reef on day two.
I forgot how shallow it was and caught a wave too far over and ended up getting rolled onto the reef. Shredded my arm getting out and got stuck on the reef until a wave lifted me off. As I paddled in I could only stroke fingertip deep at low tide and still ended up with a huge gash in my left hand and blood streaming off my hand.
Yesterday we ventured up to the North Shore and tried to watch the Womens Pipe Classic, but it was pretty flat so there wasn't much going on. We checked a couple of my old hangouts when I went to college out here and i was pretty disappointed. Everything was much more expensive and the vibe had changed. We only saw tourists. Life is a lot different when you live here than when you come out for vacation and you get treated different too. My wife was born and raised on the windward side of the Oahu so she is enjoying this trip home too. We, of course, got the island staple: plate lunch from L&L Drive-In. One of my favorite dishes: Chicken Katsu. My wife got the BBQ Chicken Mini-Plate
Below is a picture from the balcony of our hotel South towards where i usually surf. I like to line up of the green buoy- notice the exposed reef visible at low tide (when this picture was taken).
Day 3 (today) i am waiting for the sun to come out to cure the ding repairs on my board so i can get out to surf. Low tide was about an hour ago so it should be safe to paddle out at Rockpile or I may take my chances with the tourists and surf schools at canoes.