Beautiful day in California for Presidents Day! I got to sleep in and then surf for three hours. The waves were head high+ with lots of closeouts approaching double overhead. I started out on my longboard and quickly realized was on the wrong board and swapped it out for my 6'10" short board. The waves were large enough to keep all the foam boards on the beach so there was only three of us in the lineup. The drops were steep, but fun. At the end I had a funky tan line on my neck from my wetsuit. I am sure i'll hear about it tomorrow as its a couple inches above my shirt collar.
Monday, February 15, 2010
Presidents Day Surf
Beautiful day in California for Presidents Day! I got to sleep in and then surf for three hours. The waves were head high+ with lots of closeouts approaching double overhead. I started out on my longboard and quickly realized was on the wrong board and swapped it out for my 6'10" short board. The waves were large enough to keep all the foam boards on the beach so there was only three of us in the lineup. The drops were steep, but fun. At the end I had a funky tan line on my neck from my wetsuit. I am sure i'll hear about it tomorrow as its a couple inches above my shirt collar.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment