while protected north west facing beaches were totally flat until around 9:30 this morning.
State and county lifeguards shut down all the state beaches by 9am but I was able to find a place to paddle out anyways.
I surfed for three hours finally getting out a little before 1 pm. Conditions were all over today- it was cloudy, sunny, & rainy at different times and the waves ranged from knee high to occasional overhead sets. I was even able to get covered up a couple times.
The crazy thing is that a lot of beginners with their foam boards were wading into the surf as I left and the full force of the tsunami was supposed to hit around 1:30pm. It'll probably be like the Mavericks competion where a massive wave took out a crowd of spectators and some even ended up in the hospital with broken legs.
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