Tsunami surfing

Tsunami warnings for the pacific rim were issued this morning following a massive 8.8 earthquake off Chile. South facing beaches seemed more agitated this morning



while protected north west facing beaches were totally flat until around 9:30 this morning.



State and county lifeguards shut down all the state beaches by 9am but I was able to find a place to paddle out anyways.


I surfed for three hours finally getting out a little before 1 pm. Conditions were all over today- it was cloudy, sunny, & rainy at different times and the waves ranged from knee high to occasional overhead sets. I was even able to get covered up a couple times.

The crazy thing is that a lot of beginners with their foam boards were wading into the surf as I left and the full force of the tsunami was supposed to hit around 1:30pm. It'll probably be like the Mavericks competion where a massive wave took out a crowd of spectators and some even ended up in the hospital with broken legs.

http://www.mixx.com/videos/11264580/youtube_large_rogue_wave_accident_at_mavericks_surf_contest_02_13_10_feb_13_2010


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