Nice morning surf yesterday. Ranged from shoulder to waist high with some hollow waves. The locals who had the place wired were getting barrelled. Surfed with Matt and again the conditions were the best I had seen all week.
After about two hours I tried to take a drop, got knocked off the board, and the leash snapped. It took me a second to find it and by then it was already washing in to shore. One wave caught it, pulled it under, then launched it into the air and it tumbled thru the waves onto the beach. Not sure if the leash broke the tip off the fish or the tumbling through the shallows did the damage. But it is out of service until i fix it.
I am running out of boards...
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