I really needed to surf today. I missed the first part of the week for a variety of reasons: homework, family activities, wife had the car, and so on but the effect was the same- I was getting stressed and anxious because I couldn't surf.
The waves weren't that great, either a waist high closeout or smaller crumbly waves that really didn't give you a chance.
But I still paddled out and got some waves and therapy. The exercise of paddling creates endorphins followed by the excitement of scrambling to get out of the impact zone when a rouge wave sneaks in. The ultimate rush is when you take a steep drop and you make it. Even better when you can then ride the wave and turn and flow with the water as it rushes onto the beach.
Some of my most relaxing and therapeutic times are when I am sitting outside and watching the waves roll by. I enjoy sitting in the trough between large waves, just out far enough so the wave picks me up and just before it spits and throws itself down below, where you can feel the spray and the wind it generates. There is a zen-like feeling when you watch the sunset in the water and the waves roll past you and squadrons of shorebirds skim the wave tops & break their formation around you.
I need this peace in my life.
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