Monday, March 22, 2010

Loaner Fish

My Hawaiian friend, Matt, took pity on my broken board situation & loaned me his Island Classics Quad Fish. The board is short (6'6") but about three inches thick.

Matt and I drove down to Asilomar since they were showing the biggest swell for the central coast and surfed about 2 1/2 hours. Waves were about knee to thigh high and smooth- almost glassy. Light wind, about 5 mph & sunny in the am.

We linked up with another one of his Hawaiian friends and it brought back good memories of going to school and surfing back in Hawaii. It also toned down the "fight for every wave" agression out in the lineup & it was easy to forget the stone faced guys out there who didn't want to share. Surfing is about having fun and enjoying your time out there.

Thanks Matt for letting me borrow the fish until my longboard gets repaired!

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